Full Size Blood Parrots, Pea Puffer Algae & Thai Silk FH

Опубликовано: 05 Январь 2025
на канале: Palmer Aquatics

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Come check out episode 5 of my podcast. I talk about the recent updates that have been going on in my house of fish tank madness.

Some of the house updates on the fish tanks have been an issue happening and the pea puffer aquarium. I also picked up some full-size blood parrot cichlids that someone was wanting to get rid of. I’ve never own blood parents of the size in these fish are absolutely amazing when they get to be as adult full size of a fish.

More Comments and Talk

So I work full time and I'm working almost all day so I never get time to run to a store if I need something, I'm working a lot of hours and don't get a day off till next week, I'm really worried for my tank at the moment, fish are fine, but all of a sudden my snails don't move for days and still haven't and I'm fearing the worst, I have to resort to ordering off of Amazon for test kits. I'm still waiting for pay day next week so I don't have a lot of money to spend, I know cheap kits aren't to great but I think it's better then nothing at this point.. I found something that constantly monitors ammonia levels, do they work ok? And what does everyone think about this cheap test kit, does it test enough or could a get a better one for in and around the same price.

API Master test kit is the best a little more time consuming but it's worth it for the money and are the snails out of shell and the shell is broken that's an indication that they passed away but if your ammonia was high your fish would be sick to snails hide sometimes.

Honestly I had the same thing happen with my snails. Honestly they're just like that. If they start dying I'd worry. But if they just hibernate for days I wouldn't worry. Mine has hibernated for a week before. Every few days I would smell him and put him back. Then they just start moving. Good luck.

Anyone who yells u the ammonia alert doesn't work either had no idea what it does or how to read the instructions. That being said your best bet is the api Master test kit.

If you get the ammonia card make sure you peel the plastic cover off the indicator button or it won't work. You can test with windex first to make sure it's working. Ich treatment ruined mine so warning on that if you ever have to treat for it.

The ammonia alert I've had works, but honestly in an established tank, ammonia is unlikely to be the problem. It's more likely nitrates if you haven't kept up with water changes. If you really can't get to it right away- I would treat with Seachem's Prime- they do have nitrate reducing filter media you can buy and live plants help too.
Liquid test kits are the best for keeping up with your water.

I would get the test strips if I couldn't afford the master test kit. People say they are bad, but in your situation it may be the best choice. I agree they can be kinda iffy, but you can do more than one test strip if you think you messed up. I have the master test kit, Aquarium Co Op test strips, and tetra test strips. I use a combination of all 3.

My personal recommendation would be to introduce more plants. They will manage and take care of your water stability and reduced testing/changing needs but also improve the tank environment. You dont need fancy equipment either (co2 cans and all are optional).

The test strips have been proven to work perfectly in a laboratory environment but for the average hobbyist they will work once. there can be no humidity allowed to enter the container which by itself erases everything hopes of continued use. The fish in the photo does not have ich or if it does it is not that sick yet as I see not one white spot. Ich is a parasite as you know and will not kill a fish that you can not tell if it has it or not. it is the infections that overwhelm the fish. So it appears that the fish is having a gill issue breathing issue or some form or relief is enjoyed by gill fluttering. My first thought is a freshly cleaned filter followed by ammonia burn from the crash. Very hard to tell so you really need to test the water. it can of course be an internal parasite but I never add chemicals unless it is a last resort and I could never do that without knowing the basic water parameters for absolute and certain. The LFS should be able to test for you.